There is a universe beyond spag bol

Some of the best spots to eat delicious pasta in the Big Smoke

By Rebecca Marcone

Just face it. Vapiano is not an Italian restaurant. If you do want to eat freshly made pasta just like your nonna used to make, you should consider twice whether it seems like a wise choice to do so in a German chain which is operational in 31 different countries. But please do not start accusing us Italians of being food snobs (I mean, most of us are, to be completely honest): there are a million of fantastic options in London if you are after real good-quality Italian food at reasonable prices; it is just a matter of knowing where to look. Too many times I have listened to the dramatic complaints of expats, stating that they are desperate to go back home for Christmas to be able to eat something decent. Well, I hate to break it to you but London is one of the most globalised and diverse cities in the world and, being Italian myself, I am not afraid to say that it is right here in the Big Smoke that I had some of the best food of my life.

What most foreign people fail to understand is that Italian food is extremely diverse. Every region within the country has their own collection of traditional recipes, based on what was historically available in the area, and each regional cuisine is deeply influenced by the characteristics of the territory. Whilst I would suggest heading to Piedmont if you want to indulge in sumptuously buttery and meaty dishes, you will be better off in Puglia if you prefer seafood and the punch of a good peppery olive oil. Nonetheless, one thing is true and not at all unexpected: pasta is indeed ubiquitous. From the North to the South, every region has their own version of it and I could get to the end of this article by simply listing all of the different varieties. You should know that there is a universe beyond spag bol.

So, whether you are a nostalgic Italian student searching for a taste of home or a curious foreigner eager to learn more about pasta and discover new flavours, I have crafted a list of my personal favourite spots in the city for when I am craving a steaming bowl of goodness. Here it is.

Flour & Grape

https://www.flourandgrape.com/

Bermondsey/ London Bridge

£ (bargain)

Located on the food- lovers heaven that is Bermondsey Street, this rustic and homey place will make you leave with a huge smile on your face. I have to admit that I am a bit biased towards it, since it is my local spot and I have been so many times that the staff recognises me. The name is a hint to the fact that the menu is crafted in a way that every pasta dish is carefully paired with the wine that mostly enhances its flavours. You can get pretty much every wine by the glass, which is a huge win for me as not every night is a whole bottle kind of night and it is nice to have options. The pasta is freshly made every day and walking in front of the restaurant windows in the morning, you will get hypnotised watching the chefs at work, masterfully rolling that smooth golden dough. The menu changes often, but there are always vegan and gluten-free options available. The price point is not disappointing either, with pastas ranging from 7£ to 12£. The only drawback is that they do not take reservations and it can get extremely busy, especially on the weekend. However, they do have a very convenient gin bar right downstairs, where you can have a cheeky drink before feasting on all the carbs.

TOP TIP: Do not miss out on the moreish Taglierini (very thin long-shaped pasta typical of Northern Italy) with preserved truffle, butter emulsion and cured egg yolk. It is a hug on a plate.

Burro e Salvia

http://www.burroesalvia.co.uk/#pastaforconnoisseurs

Shoreditch

£

This small restaurant is a true hidden gem in the crazy jungle of Shoreditch. Named after the classic accompaniment to stuffed pasta ‘butter and sage’, this place is first of all a deli and then a restaurant. When you walk in, you are drawn to the variety of shapes of fresh pasta available on the counter, which you have the possibility to buy and bring home for your personal culinary experiments. The vibe here is very minimalistic, giving centre stage to the food. Among the three restaurants I recommend, Burro e Salvia is probably the one with the simplest and most authentic menu: a few good classics and not much fuffing around.

You might want to know they also run regular pasta-making workshops where the ‘sfogline’ (pasta ladies) will teach you the tricks of the trade! It definitely sounds like a fun experience and I assure you will become the most popular among your friends if you have this skill.

TOP TIP: Do not leave without trying the Agnolotti Cavour al Burro e Salvia. Fellow Piedmont people will agree with me in saying that agnolotti are an institution for us and we are ready to share their greatness with you (no, they are not the same thing as ravioli and I see an article about the history of agnolotti coming up).

Campania

Hackney

££

Located right next to the hustle and bustle of Columbia Road, Campania is one of the most picturesque restaurants I have ever seen. When I first stumbled upon this place, I immediately felt at home. When you walk inside, the atmosphere is warm and cosy and it is easy to believe you just got magically transported to a village in the South of Italy. The space is divided into two small rooms with a rustic but charming décor, which are connected by a small cobblestone alley. In the second room, you can find a large communal table where it is not unlikely to make new friends if you are chatty like I am.

One warning: do not walk in here expecting a white tablecloth experience. Campania is not perfect, and it does not claim to be. If you are lucky enough you will even spot their resident cat walking around the room, adding up to the informal and unpretentious nature of the place.

The menu is really brief and it is all written in Italian (with some traces of regional dialect as well), so make sure you bring your Italian friend with you if you do not want to be stuck with Google Translate all night. The pastas, chewy and perfectly al dente, are made with simple but fresh ingredients and they offer an accurate representation of the Italian tradition. Other than pasta, you can also find a variety of alternatives ranging from great ‘antipasti’ like burrata (think gooey mozzarella and go try it right now if you have not yet) to classic desserts like tiramisù. Among these, my personal favourite: a rich tomato-based seafood stew, served with huge toasted slices of freshly baked sourdough, which become a useful vessel to mop up all the juices and not let one drop of deliciousness go to waste. Nonetheless, beware as this place is a bit pricier compared to the other ones on the list, so you might want to keep it for a special occasion if you are a broke student.

TOP TIP: Don’t be scared by the queue and make a stop here for lunch to recharge your batteries after fighting your way through the busy Columbia Road Flower Market on a Sunday morning (they do not take bookings on Sundays). You will not regret it.